Noor-e-Banaras Lichi Silk Maroon Suit (T+B+D) Brocade Weaving

What does (T+B+D) in the name mean?

It stands for Top, Bottom and Dupatta, the three pieces in the set. All three come as unstitched fabric: 2.5 to 3.0 metres for the kurta, 2.4 to 2.5 metres for the bottom, and a dupatta of 2.4 to 2.5 metres. You'll need a tailor for the kurta and the bottom.

Where should the paisley border go when it's stitched?

At the hem, where it's woven to sit. Ask your tailor to plan the kurta length around the border instead of cutting into it, and to centre the rows of paisley butas on the front panel. A straight or slightly flared cut keeps the border flat and readable.

Is maroon only for festive occasions, or can I wear it out to dinner?

Festive occasions are its first setting: the deep maroon and brocade zari feel warm and rich at a festival gathering. It also moves easily to an evening dinner, where antique-gold jewellery and small jhumkas keep it handsome without going over the top.

How heavy is the set?

The three unstitched pieces weigh about 500 gm together. Lichi silk with brocade has some body, so a kurta holds a neat line. The final weight depends on your lining and cut; a light cotton lining keeps it comfortable for longer wear.

What style of bottom can I get from the bottom piece?

With 2.4 to 2.5 metres, most tailors can make straight pants, cigarette pants or a regular salwar for most sizes. A very full patiala or a wide palazzo may need more, so check with your tailor. Straight pants keep the look smart for work; a salwar feels more traditional.