Noor-e-Banaras Lichi Silk Black Brocade Weaving Suit (T+B+D)

What does (T+B+D) in the name mean?

It stands for Top, Bottom and Dupatta, the three pieces in the set. All three come as unstitched fabric: 2.5 to 3.0 metres for the kurta, 2.4 to 2.5 metres for the bottom, and a dupatta of 2.4 to 2.5 metres. You'll need a tailor for the kurta and the bottom.

What trims would lift black?

Gold lace or zari piping gives black a rich, classic finish; silver makes it modern. A coloured piping in red, fuchsia or emerald adds a pop at the neckline and sleeves. Gold tassels on the back dori look pretty. Keep trims thin so the brocade still leads.

Is the brocade hard to stitch?

Not if your tailor plans the cut. The fabric carries small silver-gold leaf butis with a patterned zari end border, so ask for the butis to sit centred on the front and the border to be placed where it shows best, at the hem or sleeves. Finish the seams well, since brocade can fray.

How does lichi silk fall once stitched?

Lichi silk drapes smoothly and has a lustrous surface, so it falls cleanly in straight and A-line kurtas. For a softer, more fluid fall, ask your tailor for a lightweight crepe lining, and keep the cut simple so the butis stay the focus.

What kind of lining works under silk brocade?

Soft cotton is the comfortable choice for long days, since it sits against the skin. Crepe or shantoon gives a smoother fall under a flared cut. Ask your tailor to line the kurta fully, match the lining colour closely and finish the edges so the brocade's reverse threads stay covered.